well, its a pity that this has all been so belated. When I started up this plan blog I wanted to retrospectively post about my ethnobotany experience in Hawaii before writing about some of the stuff I am seeing in Arnhem land. However, I’ve not got the internet connection required to upload my Hawaii photos yet or often the time to sit down and do a good write up. Hopefully my journal will suffice and I can retrospectively post up some of the Arhnem land stuff to if it gets ahead of me.
Anyway, I arrived in Maningrida 6 weeks ago after a four week stint in Canberra photographing leaf lips and measuring leaf veins. It was a good four weeks, cold and blustery but great to spend time with my family and catch up with friends. All up it felt too short I think, had lots on and heaps happening. After a final all night music session around the fire on 67 I was up at 4:45 bleary eyed and packing onto the plane for Darwin. I visited a friend in Darwin for a few days and acclimatised before flying into Maningrida.
The first few weeks were quite rough, I was out of my element and suffering culture shock. However, as time has gone by I’ve overcome the culture shock to a large degree (yet still making loads of mistakes and errors) and I’ve settled into the job a bit more (post on that latter).
A large part of this settling in is I’ve been taken in by the mob that lives at the outstation next to me. I am at Djinnkarr and they live at Nunguk. These areas are hills on the Thompkinson river floodplain. Two other hills, Borbodborr and Djelk make up the four significant land features of the country. It is Gurgoni landand was one of the first outstations following the outstation movement where people moved away from town camps to outstations to stem the social problems developing in the towns.
Work has been ok, I’ve been spin doctoring for the ranger coordinator to generate an annual report about the great land management we do and how we care for country. Meanwhile money from the same government is funding mine explorations in the region and generally participating in not giving a damn. I feel a little unclean. Also been working on a database tool for land management that the ranger’s use called Cybertracker. I’m helping to reorganise the data capture process and program so its easier for the rangers to use and more helpful in finding out the effect of indigenous land management on landscape health. I always feel compromised doing work like this because its funded by the government and philanthropy groups who either made their money being environmentally and culturally destructive or are the same government encouraging an endless growth economy and giving mining companies tax concessions.
Anyway, work is not the reason I am here. Outside of work I’ve been going fishing and fibre collecting with the Nanguk mob. We caught a big mob of rajarra (barramundi) and catfish on the weekend down at first landing where people used to live on country before being corralled into schools and houses about 13 years ago. I harvested Corypha palm for the women at Nanguk which we striped and twined. This is one of the plants used to make Dilly bags.
The leaf is pressed between the thumb and forefinger and rubbed to release the outer skin from the leaf. The leaf is held with the toe to keep it tight and stripped down. The liberated fiber is then held between the toes and bunched up. Once all the fibres are stripped a few are held and pulled tight and rubbed between the palms to fray the fiber. This is then rolled on the leg at the knee to twine up and then folded in half. Twining is continued but then the top is released so it bind up as a string. The fiber is extended by twisting in new fibers in at the base, holding tight at the tip and rolling as before. I’ve started making a string bag, probably not correctly but its a start. I’ve made over 4m of string and three rounds of knot tying. I want to go collect banyan roots where are smashed up like kapa cloth (a polynesian fiber technique) and twined in a similar manner. Banyan or Marnu is made into fish traps that are placed in the rivers to trawl fish and are more “Male” than dilly bags which is seen as women’s work.
I’ve also been out harvesting Pandanus with the women. We went to a fresh water creek and cut down a hooked stick with which to pull the central core of the pandanus towards us for yanking out. The youngest leaves have the best fibre and the least thorns. These are bundled and wrapped in Paperbark until processing. Leaves are stipped similar to the other plants mentioned above except that only one side is stripped. Also, the edges are stripped off to give long firm fibres that are used in coil basket weaving. This is not a traditional arnhem land weaving technique but was introduced by missionaries from South Australia where it is a desert weaving technique. I’ll post about those ones once I begin doing them, gonna concentrate on my bag for now.
Live Aloha
PG